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horseunderwater

Cannot fully turn it off now and it is permanently running. Could it be the new fangled ceramic thing that is now used instead of the rubber washers of old? Also all hot taps now have air in them and they are spouting all over. Assume it is related to first problem.
Mark and Frances.:confused:
 
Hi

First problem is a new CD valve is required

Second problem would need some more info, what system are you on

Has the only started since the tap leaked?
 
Hi
Hubby has just looked at pipes under sink and found that we have no isolation valves in line, so we cannot turn off there, which means we will have to empty tank etc. Kitchen fitted in 2006 and I thought they had to be put in these days.
Yes the spurting seems to be happening only since the running hot tap.
We really are not having much luck with whole system, no heating for past month about 50% of time and during most of Christmas due to gas meter failure and other things going wrong. Costing loads of money. Hence why hubby trying to do most of it. Have just had a wiring expert from a local plumber come in to tell us that we had no live feed to boiler and that it was all wired wrong, only turned out it was wired right, just that timer control was not talking to the boiler and it was this that had failed. Honeywell 9400c which was new, so had to get refund on that. The old one that we thought had failed still works!
Can I ask if a CD valve is silver with 2 black plastic collars on it? We seem to have a spare one for the bath mixers. And I assume that kitchen will be different size to a bath one?
Thanks for any further help in advance.
Frances and Mark.
 
Its likely to be a different size for the kitchen mixer and as for its look they are usually brass but vary from each manufacturer

I would recommend whacking isolation valves on after your hunbby has drained its good practise.

If you speak to the manufacture of the kitchen tap they should provide the CD valve free if its in warranty
 
No need to drain the tank - use the shut off valve on the DHW feed to the cylinder, or if it's seized used the carrot & tatie trick.
 
Hubby had it all apart, the other day when he had some spare time and said that the valve itself shuts off the flow fine. What seems to be the problem is a little plastic moulded bit that sits between the knob and the valve, presumably linking the two so that you can turn off the tap properly.
Can you get a replacement for these things or do we need to buy a whole new mixer tap unit? Also are they one size fits all?:confused: Mark and Frances.

Hubby had it all apart, the other day when he had some spare time and said that the valve itself shuts off the flow fine. What seems to be the problem is a little plastic moulded bit that sits between the knob and the valve, presumably linking the two so that you can turn off the tap properly.
Can you get a replacement for these things or do we need to buy a whole new mixer tap unit? Also are they one size fits all?:confused: Mark and Frances.
Further - have now decided to buy a new kitchen mixer tap unit for under £20 on Ebay as this seems easiest and hopefully cheapest option.
 
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New tap arrived yesterday and got fitted yesterday. Had to fit it backwards though as bolt was impossible to access and tighten up in the correct position, so we now have an art deco style tap with hot tap on right and backwards movement.
They move easier than previous ones so hopefully will not be subject to same problems.
Mark and Frances.:D
 
New tap arrived yesterday and got fitted yesterday. Had to fit it backwards though as bolt was impossible to access and tighten up in the correct position, so we now have an art deco style tap with hot tap on right and backwards movement.
They move easier than previous ones so hopefully will not be subject to same problems.
Mark and Frances.:D
swap the cartidges to get the operation the right way reverse the feeds to get hot left
 
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