Retrofitting wall mounted bath spout and taps

[stuco]

Hi, looking for some help.

I am refitting our bathroom and I'm replacing the old bath with deck mounted taps on the side with a new bath and wall mounted taps at the back. The tap is in 3 parts, spout and 2 valves, complete with flexi pipes.

My question is how do I retrofit them to the plaster board wall (which will eventually be tiled). I'm prepared for it to be a quite a major task but just not sure where to start. Do they also have to be mounted through the wood of the stud wall or is the plasterboard strong enough to take them.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[easyt]

Without knowing the specification, make model etc it is difficult to advise. Can you supply a link? I know that if it was me I would be thinking about the future. Would I want to put a shower there or another replacement in the future? If so I would ensure that the taps were at 150mm centres to suit future exposed valve shower. May not be worthwhile but you need to look at future alterations. They need to come through the plasterboard as going through the wood is not practical. I would at least fit some noggings between the studs to ensure the pipes could be securely clipped.

As for additional support that is really a matter of what you feel comfortable with. Are you confident that they are secure is the question you need to ask yourself. Have the valves any other fixing other than the pip tails?

When I fitted an exposed valve shower bar mixer the pipes were supposed to support the valve. I didn't fancy that. So I used a showerPl8 which held the pipe securely. Ad ensured there was stud work to fix it to. As my tiles wer over 250 wide I also ensured that the fittings fell within one column of tiles so that If I need access in the future the damage is limited and also placed an additional stud either side so that I could cut the board out and have studwork to fix a repair onto without affecting tiles either side. May not be a helpful reply but I am saying 'think ahead'

 

[stuco]

Hi, Thanks for your reply and I get what you're saying about thinking ahead!

Couldn't find a link but have posted 2 photos. Small flexi pipes are 120mm long x 18mm and when assembled gives a total external width of approx 380mm.
I'm sticking with the existing electric shower point at the end of the bath so not planning to add a shower to the arrangement.

Still can't get my head around where and by how much I break through the plasterboard. I obviously have to get to the rear of the fittings to attach so do I remove a whole section of plasterboard, fit pipework and then somehow refit plasterboard?

Thanks again.

 

[easyt]

What I would do, (don't believe in keyhole surgery) sound out to find the studs (tap, drill or break in) neatly cut the plaster board back with a Stanley to two upright studs and remove. Screw a timber at least 50mm thick to existing studs. Fit some noggings (may have to be shallow ones in some areas to allow for pipes). Fill in with new piece of green (water resistant ) plasterboard screwed in place with dry wall screws. If it is a major job(and therefore not cheap) and you are going to tile and a shower is involved I would tank any area likely to be affected by the shower and splashing lol prior to tiling (£45 well spent for piece of mind).

If an existing nogging is involved same advice.

 

[stuco]

Thanks, confirms what I thought I'd end up having to do, just didn't know if I was missing an 'easier' option.

May have fouled up with the tap anyway as I didn't check the dimensions for the rear of the tap and don't have enough space within the cavity. If I stick with this tap think I will end up having to put up a false wall of plasterboard to create extra depth. Suppose in a way, this might make job slightly easier tho...

 

[easyt]

I would have thought that there would be enough depth in a normal cavity ?

 

[stuco]

Just measured the stud wall cavity where I've put in a towel rail (wall still open) and the depth is approx 40mm, then there's about another 12mm for the board and plaster. The taps are going on the opposite wall but its also an internal stud wall so I'm assuming the depth will be the same. The measurement on the back of the tap from plate to end is 75mm. Some will be taken up with tiling and glue but it still leaves me without enough depth...

 

[easyt]

I must admit I am very surprised. I expected more like 100mm. Normally the stud walls I have encountered (between rooms rather than partitions) have used either 75mm or 100mm timbers.

 

[stuco]

Thanks for your replies.

Have just guestimated the cavity on the partition walls upstairs (loft extension completed about 4 years ago) and they are at least 75mm, if not closer to 100mm. The main house was built in 1994 and the cavitys seem to be filled with an egg box type of arrangement of cardboard. I'm assuming something to do with noise transmission. I suppose most wall mounted taps are going to need more than 40mm so its either add plasterboard to increase depth or abandon the idea and go for deck mounted. Hmm decisions, decisions....