Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Soldering Precuations (Part 2)

[Roy_66]

Admins: Apologies: Can you please change post title to "Part 2"

This post just for interest/comment so please only read if you have spare time.

Following on from my Part 1:
Loo Cold Feed and Overflow Rework / Dot Dab Drywall (Part 1)

With all your help in the training (and lots of other stuff I've read on UK Plumbers forum) did the soldered connection in the wall with following setup:

Note:

1. Rang my house insurance first to check I was Ok with this job.

2. Used a car tyre inflator attached to nearest sink tap (ran at about 15 PSI max achieved, bit more would have helped) using a rubber tap adapter to get all water out the pipe. Pipe was slightly uphill so took a couple of hours running pump in bursts so as not to overheat. With hindsight should have closed off all the upstairs loo and loft ball valves to increase flow on pipe I was working on, rather than drinking tea ). Tested for water using thin 1 foot long strip of paper.

3. Damped all cardboard edges of plasterboard with hand
sprayer. Also sprayed into wall cavity to left to damp the wool on pipe behind wall.

4. Wet rag clipped to pipe to left. Also note the two foil reflectors one each side (don't torch those). Overflow pipe wrapped in foil.

5. Three heat mats, two beige ones to stop hot gases and air going into wall space. Thin grey mat to right cos I was short of space.

6. Half a biscuit tin (paint burnt off first outside) bolted back together behind the elbow and screwed to wall.

Only thing I didn't think of before was that when pre heating pipe to the RHS before heating fitting need to point torch downhill for that stage, because the mats can't take any sustained flame. No problem, just learning.

7. Had fire extinguisher handy, also claw hammer to smash hole in wall above the work area, to blast the water into in case of fire.

8. After soldering, leaving to cool, and wiping clean, flushed pipe with hot water from kettle using same rubber tap adapter attached to sink (plus hose and filler tank). Did about 6 kettles worth (I missed the blue water you normally see on first flush from solder flux)

So was well happy with that. Precuations slightly OTT but I'm a 1st time DIYer at first fix pluming in wall space.

Any comments / thoughts appreciated.

Roy

P.S. Brown mark on panel is knotting (1st stage of decorating )

 

[Rob Foster]

You have been very throrough,
and your work is sound I hope, no leaks. plaster board bits are good protection. I might of used a compression fitting, or map gas with very fine flame.
One Word of Warning to all whom dont know. Normal stud work timber flames up readily and is quenched with the kettle or anything that comes to hand if you need a wee. The dreaded OAK will appear to not be affected but has a tendancy to flame up hours after the job has
been funished and deemed safe so really ...WATCH OUT. this is
often why listed piles go up in the early hours when we have all gone home, and even after using hole cutters or dwill bits.
regards Rob Foster aka centralheatking

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Looks good

Joint looks spot on

 

[Roy_66]

You have been very throrough,
and your work is sound I hope, no leaks. plaster board bits are good protection. I might of used a compression fitting, or map gas with very fine flame.
One Word of Warning to all whom dont know. Normal stud work timber flames up readily and is quenched with the kettle or anything that comes to hand if you need a wee. The dreaded OAK will appear to not be affected but has a tendancy to flame up hours after the job has
been funished and deemed safe so really ...WATCH OUT. this is
often why listed piles go up in the early hours when we have all gone home, and even after using hole cutters or dwill bits.
regards Rob Foster aka centralheatking

Many thanks Rob. Wall to left is dot dab, but could be full of spiders webs and inflammable rubbish. Wall to right the loo mounts on is flimsy stud (Now with lots of noggins for loo tank and new panel) I've got access there as well for my understairs cubby hole project and did damp down there as well, from inside the cupboard which I should have said. Also vacuum up all the sawdust.

It reminds me of a vintage railway carriage restorer (wooden frame) who did a gas torch job on body work, and went home as you say thinking good job done. Sadly smoking wreckage in the morning was only fit for scrap (just the metal underframes left).

Glasgow school of art is also an interesting case:
Glasgow School of Art - Wikipedia