Search the forum,

Discuss condensate in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

marsaday

I have a vaillant combi and it has just been moved about a meter as i am converting the attic. the condensate has not been plumbed into the stack yet, put is poking through the wall.

I have just realised i could easily plumb it into the soil stack internal as the boiler is sat 1m away from the toilet (divided by a wall).

1) how do i undo the condensate trap to free it up so i can pull it back through the wall. do i need to drain down for this ?

2) how do i connect it up to the toilet outlet ? the soil stack will come through the wall the normal amount and i will then fit a flexible soil pipe to it. where would i put the overflow pipe here ?
 
get a gsr engineer in ,better off with con pipe run internally less chance of freezing
 
anyone answer my question about unplugging the condensate. i dont need an engineer to do that and i can run the overflow pipe myself.
 
Can you get a clip on boss onto the waste pipe behind the WC? If so fit in vertical position. Pipe for condensate internally can be 22mm solvent weld and you need a 22mm reducing bush for the boss.
 
If the boilers been moved by a gas safe engineer why hasnt he run the condensate to a suitable termination? get him/her back to finish the job properly
 
depends what boiler youve got - worcestors just pull out - some are glued on. broag remeha i have to heat the pipe up to get onto the outlet condensate pipe.

easy enough to do - big boss adaptors are simplist drill a hole correct size in stack and glue and push on - little clips clip in and hold and glue sets - condense pipe is then glued into that.

any problems just ask.
 
i phoned a boiler manufacturer today for a seperate issue, there pre recorded message said that they are receiving lots of calls about condensate pipes and they will not send out an engineer!
 
the condensate has been left poking out through the wall as i dont want it plumbed in just yet - i am changing my soil stack in the new yr.

now i realise i can plumb it into the toilet, hence my questions.

the boiler is a vaillant combi so i hope i can just pull out the terminal in the right hand corner. then i can pull the pipe back into the house. i will just let it drain into a bucket until i fit my toilet etc.

converting my attic you see at moment.

someone has said i can terminate it into the top of the toilet cistern, if it has an internal overflow. sounds like a good idea, but i may need it to have a bigger drop. so looks like the soil stack with a boss.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
someone has said i can terminate it into the top of the toilet cistern, if it has an internal overflow. sounds like a good idea, but i may need it to have a bigger drop. so looks like the soil stack with a boss.

never heard that before
 
It's best if competent person do the condense for you,
For the sake of £100 , you can get you self toxicated and damage your stack or boiler!
 
i am a competent person !

Condensate has now been cut and is discharging into a bucket in my attic. When i get my toilet in i will plumb it in to here.
 
the above comments totally endorse my feelings why B&q and the like should be closed down, what is some poor sap is going to find when the mars man sells his house to them! a wc be filled by the boiler condensate drain will be the least of their troubles.
 
i was going to ask on who's opinion he was competent a couple of hours ago but thought better of it, but now someone else has questioned it i will add my tuppence.
 
well i'm competent but im not gas safe registered as of yet, and i don't terminate my condensates in toilet cisterns :p
if i done that then the gas safe person that i do work with would probably tell me to F off
 
Last edited:
"competent person" is a technical word !!!

It read you are plumber /heating engineer based in Glasgow!
Just want to add next to it wanna be!
It will make it look better !!!
 
I was never going to terminate it in the toilet cistern - internal flush toilets dont have a an access point / it will be very visable so untidy / plumbing it in lower down gives me a better fall. Simply do it in the soil stack.
 
yes i do have my acs and yes i am qualified which makes me competent, im going to be gas safe registered come january when i start up my own business:p so yes i can call myself a plumber/heating engineer because that is what i do! gas safe register is aload of nonsense anyhow its a total rip off if you ask me, but it is the law:p
 
Totally agree with Quigley... To suggest that you are not competent unless you have paid a large amount of money to the GSR is utterly ridiculous... Equally, having done so does not prove that you are competent either...
 
I love the way these threads meander :eek:)

In legal terms 'competent person' means qualified and/or with the appropriate experience.

Going back to the original question and with the greatest of respect Marsaday, if you are asking whether you need to 'drain down' to work on a condensate line you have clearly demonstrated that you are indeed not, in this instance, competent.

Your condense system is part of your sealed system which prevents the escape of poc, it is not a diy job.
 
I love the way these threads meander :eek:)

In legal terms 'competent person' means qualified and/or with the appropriate experience.

Going back to the original question and with the greatest of respect Marsaday, if you are asking whether you need to 'drain down' to work on a condensate line you have clearly demonstrated that you are indeed not, in this instance, competent.
Your condense system is part of your sealed system which prevents the escape of poc, it is not a diy job.
my thoughts too.
condensate into bossed 22mm toilet pan connector way to go.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to condensate in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hello all, I’m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. I’m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
5
Views
139
I was stupid enough not to check the position of the pipes under the tiles when installing a toilet and drilled right through the center of a 16 mm copper water pipe. I exposed the pipe by removing a ~30cm section of the plastic sleeve and a ~10 cm section of the pipe around the hole. Several...
Replies
0
Views
122
Hello, I am seeking some advice, I have a POTTERTON PROMAX 28 COMBI Boiler and I noticed yesterday that the water around the house is no longer warming up. The heat exchanger has been changed 6 months ago, so I do not believe it is that. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be? Thanks
Replies
4
Views
170
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
256
We are from Alberta, and I own an electrical company. I have been asked by a BC Mechanical P. Eng. to install an emergency STOP button at the man-door to the boiler room. It's intent is to 'halt' the operation of the boilers in the room should there be an emergency. He is demanding that I do...
Replies
1
Views
73
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock